11/23/1961
Food Formulas of Forefathers Handed Down Through Generations
Members
of the Rebecca Stoddert Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution
are commemorating Thanksgiving Day by sharing their valuable recipes
used for many generations for family Thanksgiving feasts.
The
recipes furnished by members of this group of ladies have been handed
down for many generations. Some of them have been brought up to date
since the first use not too long after the first Thanksgiving celebrated
in 1621.
Although customs and eating habits have changed since
the days of the Pilgrims, the custom of Thanksgiving feasting still goes
on with the same traditional foods being served as were served to those
brave pioneers.
History has it that wild turkey was first on the
bill of fare at that first feast. Cranberries, the wild variety, were
also served, as was Indian pudding, from which our traditional plum
pudding is derived.
And so, in reviving these heirloom recipes.
DAR members have traced the recipes to their beginnings back in pioneer
days. Slight changes over the years have brought the recipes up to date.
MRS.
KAY WARD, regent of Rebecca Stoddert chapter, has delved into her
collection of fine old recipes and furnished one for Apple Strudel
handed down from her mother and grandmother. It calls for 5 cups of
peeled and sliced apples, 2 1/2 cups flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 2
tablespoons lard, 2 eggs beaten lightly, ½ cup warm water, 1 cup brown
sugar, 1/2 cup raisins, ½ cup chopped nuts, 3 tablespoons melted butter,
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, grated rind of one lemon. Sift flour and salt
together. Mix well with lard. Add eggs and water. Knead well. Throw or
beat the dough against the board until it blisters. Place it in a warm
place under a cloth for a while. Pull dough out with hands carefully
until thin. Spread with mixture made of apples, butter, raisins, nuts,
brown sugar, cinnamon and lemon rind. Fold in outer edges. Roll out
about 4 inches. Bake (450 degrees for 10 minutes, 400 degrees for 20
minutes). Cool and cut into slices.
The recipe was used, in Mrs
Ward's family for generations and brought to this country from Holland
and Germany. The first ancestors to come to this country were the
Mathias Koplin family in 1685, and Paulus Custer in 1685 from Crefeld,
Germany. Mrs Ward's father and mother were the Ballentine Hunsicker
family of Pennsylvania. In those days it was the custom to have regular
baking days.
Other members of the chapter have delved into their recipe files for recipes, each of which is a least 100 years old.
SWEET
POTATO BISCUITS is the recipe furnished by Mrs. W. J. Moran. It has
been in in the family since 1702 and was served daily by her mother,
Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Haughton Burke, who with her family lived in North
Carolina. Mrs. Buke moved to El Paso with Mrs. Moran in 1915.
The recipe reads:
Mix
thoroughly 1 pint boiled and mashed sweet potatoes, tablespoon each of
melted lard and butter. Add 1 pint sour milk into which 1 teaspoon soda
has been stirred. Add enough flour to make a soft dough and make into
small biscuits. Let stand 24 hours then bake in a hot oven.
BOILED
CUSTARD, the recipe which is 150 years old, was furnished by Miss Annie
and Miss Floride Harris. Their mother Mrs. Mary Reese Harris, used the
recipe, handed down by her mother, Mrs. Caroline Wardlaw Reese, It has
been the traditional Thanksgiving and Christmas day dessert for
generations of Harrises. The Harris sisters still use the recipe for ice
cream. It states:
Mix 1 quart sweet milk, 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1
heaping tablespoon cornstarch, 1/2 teaspoon vanilla, 1 pint whipping
cream, a sprinkle of salt and nutmeg. Mix thoroughly and cook over low
heat until thick. Chill and serve plain or garnished with fruit
ONE
- TWO - THREE – FOUR CAKE recipe belongs to Mrs. R R. Deason. It calls
for 1 cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar. 3 cups of flour and 4 eggs,
separated; 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 1 teaspoon vanilla, 1/2
teaspoon salt, 1 1/4 cups sweet milk. Cream butter and sugar, add egg
yolks, salt and vanilla. Sift together flour and baking powder
alternately with milk to the creamed mixture, beating well after each
addition. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold lightly into cake
mixture. Bake at 350 degrees in greased and floured pan for 1 hour and
15 minutes.
This recipe comes from the files of Mrs. Reason's
mother, Mrs. George M. Dunne, who received it from her mother, Mrs.
George F. Parker of Kississimove, Fla.
SWEET POTATO PONE, a recipe
belonging to Mrs. S. J. Caddy, calls for 4 cups grated, raw sweet
potatoes 2 eggs, 1 ½ cups sugar, 2 tablespoons nutmeg, 2 tablespoons
butter, 2 cups sweet milk. Add the beaten eggs to milk, sugar and
softened butter and grated potatoes. Mix well and add spices with 1
tablespoon salt, flour and milk. Bake in shallow pan in moderate oven
for 45 minutes.
This recipe was given to Mrs Gaddy by her mother,
Mrs. Corrie Capo Kees, of Pennsylvania, who has. been a frequent El Paso
visitor,
MRS. FRANK P. SCHUSTER has furnished a recipe handed
down by her great aunt for Old Fashioned Ragout Pickles. It calls for 2
gallons of cut cabbage, 1 gallon of green or ripe tomatoes, 4
tablespoons mustard, 3 gills white mustard seed, 2 tablespoons allspice,
2 teaspoons cloves, 1 pint onions, 1 1/2 lbs. brown sugar, 1/4 pint
salt and 3 quarts of vinegar. Boil mixture well but do not use brass or
copper kettle.
FRENCH COOKIES is the recipe furnished by Mrs. J.
W. Hopkins, from the files of her father's family. These were a regular
holiday cooky, used in their home in Alsace-Lorraine. The recipe calls
for 6 eggs, 1 lb. fine flour, 1 lb. sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla, 1/4 lb.
almonds, 1 tablespoon mixed candied fruit, 2 teaspoons cinnamon. The
sugar and egg must be beaten until light and fluffy. Add vanilla, flour,
fruit and almonds, The almonds must be roasted in sugar and ground.
Lightly mix all ingredients. Drop by teaspoon on a cold baking sheet In
the evening. Keep cold overnight. Bake in a slow oven.
To toast almonds, put a tablespoon of sugar in a cold fry pan with almonds on top.
A
RECIPE FOR GINGER BREAD from Scotland, dated 1794 belongs to Mrs. L. L.
Robinson. It was handed down from her grandparents and was originally
from Lanark, Scotland.
The recipe reads, 1 cup heavy molasses, 3/4
cup of brown sugar, ½ teaspoon ginger, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2
teaspoon salt, 1/2 cup sour or sweet milk, 1 teaspoon soda and 2 1/2
cups flour mixed well and baked in a moderate oven.
MRS. CHARLES
GRANT has furnished a recipe for beaten biscuits which was handed down
from her husband's mother and was used for generations as the main
biscuit recipe. It simply states to mix 1 ¼ lbs. flour, ¼ lb. lard, 1
teaspoon salt and a pinch of soda with water and beat until blisters
appear. Roll out, cut and bake in a hot oven.
VINEGAR PEACHES is
the old fashioned recipe furnished by Mrs. H. C. Dyer and her daughter,
Mrs. Henry McDonnell Jr. The famous recipe handed down through many
generations of Mrs. Dyer's family reads: Peel large peaches Place in a
stone jar , allowing 1 Ib. fruit for 1 Ib. sugar and 1 qt. vinegar. Boil
vinegar and sugar with a little bag of cinnamon and cloves. When
boiling hot pour over peaches in jars.
MRS. NANCY Jordan Garrett,
one of the DAR members, is the owner of an old English cookbook, one of
the earliest on record. It was printed in 1767. The title of the
heirloom, leather bound book is "The Art of Cookery." It was printed in
London and since it was not ladylike in those days for a woman to do
such things as writing a book, the author is not listed. The fly leaf
simply states, "Written by a Lady." On another fly leaf faded
handwriting is the name 'Elizabeth Garrett, Her 'Book, 12 January,
1789," The writer is believed to be an ancestor of Mrs. Garrett's.
The
book is written in old English fashion and home remedies includes such
as Hysterical water, which was to relieve hysteria. . . a hair preserver
which lists in the ingredients wine, rosemary flowers, honey and almond
oil. It also includes "A certain cure for the bite of a mad dog," which
includes an involved procedure of treatment.
Mrs. Garrett has
contributed her ancestral recipe for Pound Cake, which has been traced
back as far as 1792. It reads 1 cup butter, 1 2/3 cups sugar, 5 eggs, 2
cups sifted flour, 1/2 teaspoon flavoring, 1/2 teaspoon brandy or rum.
Cream the butter and gradually add sugar. Beat until light. Add eggs,
one at a time. Continue beating until sugar dissolves. Fold in flour.
Add flavoring and pour into greased and floured pan. Bake about 1 hour
at 325 degrees. Eggs should have been at room temperature.
WHEN
THE PILGRIMS celebrated the first Thanksgiving in 1621, their menu would
have put most of our modern Thanksgiving dinners to shame. In addition
to the traditional turkey, the list of entries for that first
celebration included ducks, lobsters; eels, clams, oysters and several
varieties of fish.
Accompanying the main courses were corn,
gooseberries, strawberries, cherries, grapes, plums, cranberries and
biscuits made from flour carried in the Mayflower’s stores.
For
dessert, the Pilgrims had Indian pudding made from flour, molasses and
cranberries, using a recipe given them by the friendly Indian, Squanto.
They may also have had fruit pies and tarts.
All this was washed down with new wine made from the local grape crop, with perhaps a few strong-spirits from the ship's stores.
Contrary
to common belief, the first Thanksgiving celebration was not one meal,
but a three-day series of meals eaten by 140 persons, including 90
Indians who were guests of the Pilgrims. After the long, hard first
winter and the struggle to raise the first crops, we may imagine the
Pilgrims adopted the Indian custom of eating heartily as long as the
food lasted.
While it is difficult to estimate accurately the
number of calories consumed in the three-day Pilgrim Thanksgiving feast,
it is safe to assume from the variety of foods that the celebrants far
exceeded what is now regarded as a proper daily intake.
As today’s
Americans emulate their Pilgrim forefathers in celebrating
Thanksgiving, they may not enjoy the extreme variety of foods featured
in 1621. But many will exceed the recommended caloric intake by a great
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